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WALES BONNER AW20 "LOVERS ROCK"

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"LOVERS ROCK" 牙買加色彩的地下派對

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英國新銳男裝設計師 Grace Wales Bonner 在2014年畢業於 Central Saint Martins,隨即創立時裝品牌 Wales Bonner,多元的跨文化背景與剪裁技藝,在 Karl Lagerfeld 和 Phoebe Philo 手中接獲 2016 LVMH Prize 的首獎肯定,年僅28歲的 Grace Wales Bonner 從 LVMH 的舞台到 2019 BFC/Vogue Fashion Fund,在商業與藝術層面皆獲得高度評價。

牙買加裔英國設計師 Grace Wales Bonner 以70年代的倫敦作為這季的起點,本季名為"LOVERS ROCK",她受訪時說道:LOVERS ROCK 來自英國第二代牙買加人在文化衝撞下創造的一種音樂,融合了雷鬼和靈魂樂,傳遞在非裔移民二代的美學文化。LOVERS ROCK 也源自英國新媒體藝術大師 John Goto 在70年代 Lewisham 青年俱樂部的青少年影像作品,出版社出版了一本書,名為《LOVERS ROCK》,其中包含四十五幅非裔肖像畫,帶給 Grace 本季靈感啟發,紀錄著第二代移民的加勒比海人到英國,在白人主流社會的邊緣創建了自己的社區和派對。

Grace 在設計的過程中大量參考了70年代倫敦的照片,不列顛-牙買加社區、第二代非洲加勒比海移民社區的照片,並思考那些跟我家庭有同樣背景的人,從他們身上汲取靈感,透過服裝設計探索自己的文化脈絡,向這個大時代致敬。

在影片中可以看到,Wales Bonner 於今年倫敦秀場上打造成倫敦70年代的牙買加地下派對,Grace 把英國和牙買加融合在一起,出現 Fair Isle Knits 和英式剪裁西裝、粗花呢和窗玻璃形格紋,Donkey Jacket 和風衣,這些非常經典的英國服飾在 Grace 的設計下變得更加優雅,挑釁和創意。

此外,本季還有大量適合WFH套裝的條紋運動服和高舒適度的針織單品,看似基本的運動服裝,背後的靈感之一 Bob Marley,透過拼色燈芯絨襯衫和條紋表現牙買加式的深情浪漫主義。

Wales Bonner 更深入地探究了Sonic Style,在提高其曲調的同時,提升的製服方式和敘事角度,使1970年代英國的亞文化受到關注,一股奔湧的溫暖和觸動人心的靈魂。


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Founded in 2013, Ne.Sense is a fashion retailer operating both at it’s retail space and online store. Beyond its core of fashion retailing, Ne.Sense frequently ventures into the blurred lines of art, design and fashion. Ne.Sense believes that the building of one’s sense and appreciation towards art should be organically formed, not forced, and slowly nurtured through time. Ne.Sense invites all passersby to join us on the path to grow and discover the essence of quality living. Ne.Sense Retail - With the mindset of quality over quantity, we offer customers with innovative, sophisticated, and simple garments without boundary. The store, located in the heart of Taipei City, Taiwan, aims to bring an evolutional shopping experience within; and to spread our unique interpretation of style and fashion globally. Ne.Sense Studio - The studio offers editorial production, styling services, garment design, and production. Since it’s establishment, Ne.Sense Studio has been on a constant quest of innovation; producing unique, daring, and elevated work by staying true to it’s motto - originality comes from a burst of rebellious mentality. Necessity Sense - Necessity Sense is the in-house label of Ne.Sense, aiming to impact beyond garments by storytelling an unique perspective on unspoken cultural issues. The founding brothers, born and raised in religious Taiwanese family, bounded in strict but orderly Japanese education system, and eventually broadened perspectives in the free state of America; resulting in an aesthetic mixed of western modernization and eastern traditions
NE.SENSE is a fashion retailer operating both at it’s retail space and online store, while frequently ventures into the space of art and design. BOUTIQUE:台北市信義區基隆路二段52號1樓
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